I spend a lot of time with my ironing board. Lately, the deplorable state of its cover has been getting under my skin. Why not make a new one?
Making a new cover couldn’t be easier.
First, remove the old one.
Choose a tightly woven, colorfast material for the top. I pulled a cheerful plaid from my stash.
Using the old cover as a pattern, cut the new material.
Set up the serger for a 2 or 3 thread overcast with the knife up.
Lay about 6-8 inches of cord to the right of the fabric edge (next to the foot) and draw to back of machine.
Starting on one of the long sides stitch a wide overcast around the edge, feeding cord through at the same time. Stop about an inch from where you started sitiching. Leave another 6-8 inches of cord at the end.
Alternately, serge without the cord. With a tapestry needle, thread the drawstring cord through the overcast stitches.
Pop the new cover on the ironing board and gather in place.
After so many relatively complicated projects, it feels great to have a little instant gratification! This project took about an hour (not counting blogging).
A friend gave me a neat cotton/spandex panel which features some of my favorite movie heroes. I really wanted to make something with it, but I didn’t have any matching fabric and the design was located inconveniently right in the middle of the small (fat half size) piece.
After ruminating for a while, I thought it was worth a try to just lay out some pieces and see how they fit. That way I would know how best to plan color blocking for the extra material I would need to get.
Since I was really trying to conserve fabric and I also needed some new workout shorts, I raided my pattern stash for the simplest, smallest shorts I would actually wear. I have some fancy patterns with interesting details, but those extra seamlines and pieces take more yardage. I found a very basic leggings pattern with lots of length variations (McCall’s M6360). After just rough cutting the tissue pieces and placing them over the design, I was a little discouraged. It didn’t seem like there was any way to have a logical placement of the design and still have yardage left to cut more than one piece. It was really close though.
I took my measurements and found my pattern size. The outside lines of the multi-size pattern were two sizes above what I needed. Things were looking up!
Next, I carefully placed the pattern tissue for one of the back pieces over the graphic. I was able to get the whole image only if it wrapped around my rear on one side. I can live with that. There was only one way the design was going to fit (okay – I had to cut off a tiny bit of the design), so I cut that piece first.
I figured it was also fine to put the white border inside the seam allowance and hem, so that made my working area a little bigger. With that in mind, I cut two more pieces – the other back and one of the fronts. Now it was really just scraps.
I just wasn’t happy with my options for the last front piece. I knew if I didn’t have the same fabric, any color blocking would risk uneven wear and probably a weird looking result. I’m all for weird, but on my terms.
Finally, I realized that if I carefully used the white border to make horizontal stripes, I would be able to take the odd-sized black scraps to complete the last piece.
With a little more careful cutting and piecing, I had the striped piece ready to go.
Putting the shorts together was super easy. It was all done on the serger using familiar techniques. There is an elastic waistband and coverstitched hem.
I feel quite pleased that I squeezed a whole pair of shorts out of half a yard – and no leftovers!
Well, I’m off to rule the universe. When I get back – more fun activewear!
Asymemetrical pieced stripes give the shorts a sporty look
Once again, I can assert that sewing is a small part of garment construction. Putting the robe pieces together was a relative snap after all of the planning and preparation.
After sewing the pockets and the darts, I was ready to start putting pieces together. In the last post, I tested various seam finishes and landed on flat-felling as the best option. I love the clean lines the enclosed seams make.
Of course, nothing ever goes exactly as planned. I carefully pinned the sleeves in place and was ready to sew them, when I realized that I had pinned them right sides together (flat-felling starts wrong sides together). Rather than pull everything out, I figured it would be fine to have the sleeve cap seams on the inside and use faux-french technique to finish them. It turned out fine, I am happy to report.
I also forgot to put a loop in the neck seam for hanging the robe on hooks. This goof I dealt with by sewing a small reinforced panel with my name tag and loop, then stitching it to the inside back neck. I used a panel because the fabric is so light and fragile that the weight of the whole garment pulling on two small attachment points would quickly lead to holes. Stitching a square creates stability by distributing the load over a larger area. Just for fun, I used the selvage to make the loop. I just liked the way the thread frayed around the edge – and because it is the selvage, it is very stable.
I really love the finished result. I will be taking my super-light robe not just to the gym, but any time I pack a suitcase for myself. It’s so light that I could even find room in my carry-on bag.
The whole project became much more of a technique sampler than I intended. I hope that some of my experiments and fixes inspire you to do something you haven’t tried!